Mount Makalu Expedition
April and May & October and November
Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is considered to be one of the most challenging mountains to summit.
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco.
Overview: Mount Makalu Expedition
Mount Makalu is the fifth highest mountain at 8,485 metres (27,838 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. Being one of the eight-thousanders, Expedition of Mount Makalu has been hot topic among mountain climbers. Mount Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid which has enriched its beauty.
Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7,678 m) lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m).
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, or is considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.
The first expedition on Mount Makalu was made by an American team led by Riley Keegan in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, sirdar Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30: Jean Couzy and Terray).
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa summitted the next day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte on the 17th. This was an amazing achievement at the time, to have the vast majority of expedition members to summit, especially on such a difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by one to two expedition members at most, with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.
Makalu is considered one of the most challenging mountains to climb and requires fine technical skills. Makalu-Barun Valley is a Himalayan glacier valley situated at the base of Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. This valley lies entirely inside the Makalu Barun National Park.
Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts, where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. This unique landscape shelters some of the last pristine mountain ecosystems on Earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by human kind.
- Arrival & departure transfers by private vehicle
- B&B accommodation in Kathmandu at a 3 star hotel on a twin-share basis
- Complete camping equipment for trekking
- Accommodation & meals while trekking
- Food & camping at Base Camp for members & staff
- Expedition permit (shared basis) & national park fee (wherever applicable)
- 1 tent per climber at Base Camp
- 2 Base Camp staff (1 cook & 1 kitchen boy)
- 1 liaison officer plus daily wages, equipment & insurance
- Staff wages, equipment allowance & insurance
- Required number of porters (porters to carry up to 30kgs each) including food & equipment
- Domestic airfare (strictly as per itinerary) for members & staff
- Cargo fees (strictly as per itinerary)
- Cargo clearance & duty fees
- All surface transfers as per the itinerary
- Farewell dinner at authentic Nepali restaurant with cultural program
- Nepal visa fee
- unch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- High-altitude Climbing Sherpa
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during trekking.
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones and Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Personal climbing gears
- Supplemental oxygen
- Filming permit (if special camera)
- Cargo Customs clearance duty fees
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “Included” section