Mount Shishapangma Expedition
Comparatively Less Strenuous
April and May & October and November
Mt. Shishapangma is the 14th highest mountain in the world. Main attraction is the mesmerizing view from the summit.
Shishapangma was first climbed via the Northern Route on 2 May 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xǔ Jìng.
Overview: Mount Shishapangma Expedition
Mount Shishapangma, also called Gosainthan, is the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8,027 meters (26,335ft) above sea level. It is the last 8,000-metre peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on visits by foreign travelers to the region imposed by authorities of the Government of China and of the Tibet Autonomous Region.
Geologist Toni Hagen explained the name as meaning a “grassy plain” or “meadow” (pangma) above a “comb” or a “range” (shisha or chisa) in the local Tibetan dialect, thereby signifying the “crest above the grassy plains”.
On the other hand, Tibetologist Guntram Hazod records a local story that explains the mountain’s name in terms of its literal meaning in the Standard Tibetan language: shisha, which means “meat of an animal that died of natural causes” and sbangma which means “malt dregs left over from brewing beer”. According to the story, one year a heavy snowfall killed most of the animals at pasture. All that the people living near the mountain had to eat was the meat of the dead animals and the malt dregs left over from brewing beer, and so the mountain was named Shisha Pangma (shisha sbangma), signifiying “meat of dead animals and malty dregs”.
The Sanskrit name of the mountain, Gosainthan, means “place of the saints” or “Abode of God”. Still, its most common name is Shishapangma. Shishapangma is located in south-central Tibet, five kilometers from the border with Nepal. It is the only eight-thousander entirely within Chinese territory. It is also the highest peak in the Jugal Himal which is connected to and often considered part of Langtang Himal. The Jugal/Langtang Himal stands on the Tibet/Nepal border. Since Shishapangma is on the dry north side of the Himalayan crest and further from the lower terrain of Nepal, it has less dramatic vertical relief than most major Himalayan peaks.
Shishapangma has a subsidiary peak higher than 8,000m: Central-Peak at 8,008m (26,273ft). Some of Shishapangma’s ascents are not well verified, or still in dispute. Some climbers claim to have reached the summit when in fact they reached the slightly lower central (west) summit at 8,013m (26,289ft), which is still almost two hours climbing from the 14-meter-higher (46 ft), the true summit of 8,027m (26,335ft). Respected Himalayan chronicler and record keeper, Elizabeth Hawley, famously got Ed Viesturs (amongst others), to re-climb the true main summit of Shishapangma in his quest to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. Her “Himalayan Database” would not accept central (west) summit ascents as full ascents of Shishapangma.
31 people have died climbing Shishapangma, including Americans Alex Lowe and Dave Bridges in 1999, veteran Portuguese climber Bruno Carvalho and also noted Bulgarian climber Boyan Petrov, who disappeared on 3rd May 2018. Nevertheless, Shishapangma is regarded as one of the easiest eight-thousanders to climb. The most common ascent via the Northern Route ascends via the northwest face and northeast ridge and face, and has relatively easy access, with vehicle travel possible to base camp at 5,000m (16,400ft). Routes on the steeper southwest face is more technically demanding and involve 2,200 meters (7,220ft) of ascent on a 50-degree slope.
Shishapangma was first climbed via the Northern Route on 2 May 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xǔ Jìng. In addition to Xǔ Jìng, the summit team consisted of Zhāng Jùnyán, Wang Fuzhou, Wū Zōngyuè, Chén Sān, Soinam Dorjê, Chéng Tiānliàng, Migmar Zhaxi, Dorjê, and Yún Dēng.
- Arrival & departure transfer from and to the airport & hotels
- CTMA climbing permit & other fees including Tibet visa
- Surface transportation on private vehicles both in Nepal & Tibet as per the itinerary
- 4 nights bed & breakfast accommodation in a 3* hotel in Kathmandu (twin share)
- Good hotels/lodges in Kerung & Tingri (no meals)
- Base Camp accommodation with individual sleeping tent with mattress
- Base Camp service (shared with group)-kitchen tent with cook, kitchen boy, dining tent with tables and chairs, shower tent, toilet tent, storage tent, gas heater etc.
- High camps during the climb with high food
- 3 oxygen bottles (4L) for each member & 1 oxygen bottle (4L) for climbing Sherpa
- 1 climbing Sherpa for 1 climbing member during the expedition
- Medical Kit & Walkie Talkie
- Salary & load carrying bonus for Sherpa (this bonus does not include the summit bonus)
- Required number of porters/Yaks to the Base Camp and return
- Rope fixing & environment fee
- Climbing equipment, transportation, accommodation, food, salary and insurance for Sherpa and other staffs
- Farewell dinner at an authentic Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu
- International airfare to and from Kathmandu & Nepal visa fee
- Travel & medical insurance including insurance for emergency rescue & evacuation
- Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu; all meals in Kerung & Tingri
- Personal expenses such as telephone, laundry, bottled water, bar bills, etc.
- Trekking/climbing gear (also available on hire)
- Tips for local staff
- Summit Bonus
- Any extra cost arising out of natural calamities or cancellation of the program
- All other items not mentioned in the list of ‘Included’