Shishapangma Expedition

Introduction

Mt.Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world, stands at an elevation of 8,027 meters (26,335 feet) and is often considered to be the safest and easiest peak among the 8000ers because of its low vertical relief. It is located completely within the Nyalam county of Tibet, China. The mountain is referred to as Gosainthan by the Hindu pilgrims, which means the ‘abode of the gods’, while the Chinese call it Xixabangma. The name Shishapangma means 'crest above the grassy plains.' Its first ascent dates back to May 2, 1964, when an all Chinese team reached the summit.

Shishapangma's summit often draws questions from climbers as the main summit, 8027 m, is seldom climbed since it is located further from the central summit, 8013 m. The fact that the true summit is located at the end of a lengthy, exposed, and frequently heavily overshadowed ridge has led climbers to celebrate their success on the central summit. Shishapangma lies 30 kilometers north of the China-Nepali border in the Langtang Himal ranges.

Mountain Facts

• Elevation: 8027 meters; 26,335 ft
• Basecamp: 4980 meters; 16,339 ft
• Location: Central Tibet, China (Latitude: 28°21’12”; Longitude: 86°46’42”)
• Range: Jugal/Langtang Himal
• Rank: 14^th highest mountain in the world
• Classification: 8000er Ultra (UIAA)
• Standard Climbing Route: NW-Ridge Route

Trip Facts

• Duration: 37 days
• Starts in: Kathmandu
• Ends in: Kathmandu
• Climb Grade: Challenging
• Best Season: Autumn (Sep-Dec)
• Activities: Mountaineering
• Meal Plan: Full Board (B/L/D)
• Accommodation: Hotels, Tea Houses and Camping
• Transportation: Road transportation & Helicopter

Climbing History

• 1964 – First expedition via Northern Route by a Chinese expedition led by Xǔ Jìng.
• 1982 – First ascent of “British Route”, southwest face by Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones.
• 1999 – First Ski descent from central summit by Edmond Joyeusaz.
• 2005 - First winter ascent by Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro
• 2013 – Expedition Himalaya’s first commercial team successfully summited Shishapangma.

Our Shishapangma Special

• Customizable packages from normal to deluxe
• Highly qualified and experienced climbing guides and supporters’ team
• Full-proof documentation so you don't have worry a bit
• Every attempt to make your summit dream come true
• Sightseeing in Kyirong and around
• Heli flights from Syabrubesi to Kathmandu while returning back
• Required numbers of porters and yak for Basecamp to Advance camp logistic shuttle
• Sustainable and environment-friendly operation module
• Expedition Himalaya is built on the foundation of social principles; we give back to the Himalayan communities as we make it.

Climbing Route and Camps

Shishapangma Expedition is normally climbed from the North-west Ridge, North-east Ridge, and South-Southwest route. There are two summits of Shishapangma. The main summit is climbed via south, southwest ridge, and the northeast climbing route which is the height of 8,027 m (26,335 ft). The summit can also be climbed from the northwest through a central (fore) summit (8,013m/26,289ft.) but you are to ascend almost 250m in the knife-edged ridge – really technical and carries high risks. That is why the north-west ridge is a commercial route and 8,013 m (26,289 ft)) is taken as the standard summit.

Our highly skilled, experienced, and courteous high-altitude sherpa staff, with a track record of successful expeditions and high summit success, will accompany you on this expedition. Our skilled basecamp and advanced base camp cooks shall prepare fresh and nutritious foods, and hot drinks at least three times every day.

Advance Base Camp (5600 m; 18,372 ft)

The Advance Base Camp is located at a height of 5,600 m (18,372 ft). After a couple of days of rest and preparation at the Advance base camp, you will set out for the first camp rotation.

Camp I (6400 m; 20,998 ft)

Shishapangma Camp I is at an elevation of 6,400 meters (20,997 feet), and is situated on a level snowfield with plenty of room for a good number of tents and little danger of avalanches or rock falls. From the advanced base camp, it takes aclimbing Sherpa guide around four and a half hours to get to Camp I, while an expedition climber takes about five and a half hours. The crampon point begins one and a half hours after leaving the ABC. There are a lot of steep ups and downs on the glacier's climbing route. A two-and-a-half-hour ascent up a 25 to 30 degree slope brings you to a relatively flat section from where it's only about an hour's walk to CampI. Before we reach the flat region, our climbing Sherpas set a rope of approximately 200 meters in the most challenging section of the glacier and another rope of about 150 meters at the end of the snow section.

Camp II (7100 m; 23,295 ft)

When climbing from Camp I to Camp II, a typical climber will take roughly four hours. Camp II is situated at the col of a small mountain, at an elevation of 7,100 meters (23,295 feet). You should expect your ascent to take anywhere from a few hours to a few days, depending on factors like your level of acclimatization, the temperature, your level of fitness, and how fast you walk and climb. You'll be able to climb an ice wall with a slope of 40–45 degrees after a 30–45-minute level ascent on the ice. This part is completely attached to the main rope. It takes around 30 minutes of easy climbing to go from the ice wall to the second camp on the col of a small mountain.

Camp III (7350 m; 24,115 ft)

The climbing route from Camp II to Camp III consists of around three and a half hours on vertical ice that has a slope of between 10 and 15 degrees.

Summit Push (8027 m; 26,335 ft)

Reaching the summit of Shishapangma from Camp III and making your way back to it, or even descending to Camp II, is without a doubt the most demanding and longest journey. Nearly all climbers (90 percent) go for and reach the 8,013 m (26,289 ft) central (fore) summit. The actual peak, at 8,027 m (26,335 ft), is reached after a further two-hour journey up the icy knife-edge ridge.

Brief Itinerary

Day 01                 |              Arrive Kathmandu 1330 m (4,364 ft)

Day 02 - 04        |              Rest/ Visa application, document preparation and sightseeing

Day 05                 |              Drive to Rasuwa, Timure 1450 m (4,757 ft)

Day 06                 |              Drive to Kyirong – Cross border 2700 m (8,858 ft)

Day 07                 |              Acclimatization at Kyirong 2700 m (8,858 ft)

Day 08                 |              Drive to Shishapangma Base Camp 4980 m (16,339 ft)

Day 09 – 10        |              Rest and Acclimatization at Base Camp 4980 m (16,339 ft)

Day 11                |               Puja ceremony at Basecamp 4980 m (16,339 ft)

Day 12 – 30       |             Climbing Period (Rotations and Summit push) 8027 m (26,335 ft)

Day 31                 |              Rest, Summit success celebration and final pack up

Day 32                 |              Drive to Tingri 4300 m (14,108 ft)

Day 33                 |              Drive to Kyirong 2700 m (8,858 ft)

Day 34                  |             Drive to Kerung – Cross border 1450 m (4,757 ft)

Day 35                  |              Fly to Kathmandu via Helicopter 1330 m (4,364 ft)

Day 36                  |              Leisure Day in Kathmandu 1330 m (4,364 ft)

Day 37                  |              International Departure

Altitude profile – Shishapangma

Cost Inclusions

• Departure and arrival shuttle to and from the airport and hotels
• CTMA climbing permit and other costs, such as Tibet visa and travel permit
• Applicable local and government taxes
• Surface transportation on private vehicles both in Nepal & Tibet as per the itinerary
• Bed and Breakfast for 6 Nights’ Accommodation at 5-Star Hotel (Radisson Hotel) in Kathmandu (Twin sharing basis)
• Tibet's quality Hotels/Lodges
• Accommodation on full board (breakfasts, lunches & dinners) during the road transfers.
• Individual sleeping tent with mattress for base camp accommodation
• Base camp service (shared with group) includes a cooking tent with a chef and a kitchen boy, a dining tent with tables and chairs, a shower tent, a toilet tent, a storage tent, a gas heater, and solar electricity for battery charging
• High altitude foods during the climb having high calories
• 3 oxygen bottles (4l) for each member & 2 oxygen bottles (4l) for climbing sherpa
• 1 climbing Sherpa for 1 climbing member during the expedition
• Medical Kit carried by the Guide/ Sardar
• Walkie-Talkie and Satellite Phone (Charges Per Call)
• Sherpa's remuneration and load-bearing bonus (this bonus does not include the summit bonus)
• Required number of porters/yaks to and from base camp and return
• Climbing equipment, transportation, lodging, food, salary, and insurance for Sherpas and other staff are all provided.
• Heli flights from Syabrubesi to Kathmandu; you may avoid long, exhausting car rides while still taking in the sights of the charming tiny cities and hamlets you passed by on your route.
• Welcome and Farewell Dinner in Kathmandu at an Authentic Nepali Restaurant.

Cost Exclusions

• International airfare to and from Kathmandu
• Nepal Visa fee
• Travel & medical insurance including insurance for emergency rescue & evacuation
• Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
• Personal expenses such as telephone, laundry, bottled water, bar bills, etc.
• Trekking/Climbing gear (also available on hire)
• Summit Bonus for Sherpa & tips for local staffs ($1200+200)
• Cost for the daily weather forecast
• Tips for the staffs as a gratitude
• Any extra cost arising out of natural calamities or cancellation of the program
• All other items not mentioned in the list of ‘Inclusions’

Gears and Equipment

The journey to the 14^th highest mountain in the world demands appropriate gears and equipment. Expedition Himalaya suggests the following list of gears and equipment to have for the Shishapangma expedition: